Nearly 90% of Dutch dermatologists link TikTok skincare trends to patient skin problems
Nearly 90 percent of Dutch dermatologists report treating patients with skin problems linked to multi-step cosmetic routines popularized on social media, according to new research from dermatologists at Alrijne Hospital in Leiden.
The study, conducted among 168 dermatology professionals, found that 88 percent of respondents regularly see cases of irritation eczema, perioral dermatitis (a red, scaly rash with small pimples around the mouth, nose, or eyes), allergic reactions, and acne caused by cosmetic products.
Sebastiaan van der Bent and Mila Poelhekken, who led the research, said the findings reflect widespread concern among skin specialists.
“Online you see a thousand-and-one so-called experts promoting a skincare routine with ten or twelve steps, and that kind of regimen is increasingly being normalized. So we wondered: what do the real skin experts, the dermatologists, actually think? We turn out not to be the only ones concerned,” they said.
The researchers said multi-step skincare routines have surged in popularity across age groups, especially among teenage girls and young adults. Nearly 90 percent of dermatologists reported that patients are starting these routines at increasingly younger ages, driven by TikTok and Instagram content.
More than 80 percent of dermatologists said social media contributes to “incorrect self-treatment,” and all respondents reported encountering misinformation in their clinics. Nearly one-quarter said patients delay seeking medical care after first following skincare advice online.
“On its own, there is nothing wrong with attention to skin care and skin health; we actually welcome that. There is more focus on sun protection, and that is essential. But many other products are completely unnecessary, especially for young skin. There is too little awareness of the risks,” Van der Bent said.
The study identified common triggers for skin problems, including retinoids, exfoliating acids such as AHAs and BHAs, and added fragrances. Dermatologists also noted that products marketed as “natural” are frequently linked to allergic reactions.
Despite the popularity of extensive routines, only 12.5 percent of dermatologists actively recommend them. Poelhekken said most people need only basic care: “At most, you need two or three steps: cleansing, possibly a moisturizing product, and then sunscreen.”
TikTok said its TikTok Shop will launch in the Netherlands on June 15, allowing users to buy products directly from videos without leaving the app. The feature, already used in other countries, has raised concerns among consumer groups such as the Consumentenbond about impulse buying among young users. The rollout could further amplify influencer-driven purchasing of beauty and skincare products, as items promoted in videos become instantly purchasable within the platform. Several brands, including Cloudpillo, Meroda, Perfetti, N BRANDS by Nikkie Plessen and Versuni, will participate at launch.
